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> Jeep Articles > Technical & Installation - Suspension > Rubicon Express Generation 2 Disconnects

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Technical / Installation Articles - Suspension

Rubicon Express Generation 2 Disconnects

Article written by Kizer of Links4Jeeps.com

Date Added: 06/13/2006

I'm just like the rest of you. When I hit the trail I want to take complete advantage of my new modified suspension. The only thing I could never stand was how hard it was to pull the disconnects on my older setup.

I was browsing around and came across Rubicon Expresses Generation 2 system. SwissMountain4x4.com said they were a very new setup and to his knowledge nobody has installed them or done a install/write-up. With that in mind I was definitely going to purchase and be the first.

19mm socket
17mm socket
16mm socket
19mm wrench
2 drivers for above sockets
19mm wrench or 3/4 wrench
8mm hex bit
Thread Lock A.K.A. Lock Tight

Optional Tools
Big hammer if removing stock sway bar links
Pickle fork if removing stock sway bar links

The optional tools called out above are to remove the stock factory sway bar links. They are rather difficult without the optional tools.

Everything below was referenced from the drivers side. I like to take pictures and note things from one side to keep it simple and not to loose my intended audience. Plus once you do one side its the exact same thing on the other. As well I removed the drivers side tire simply for taking pictures. You do not have to remove the tire to do this. I did not install the upper pins used for storage as of yet. I will when I get a feel for the length of the disconnects and when I have a few minutes.


1. All the parts arrived in a box which is about the size of a can of tennis balls.

2. Everything is bagged to keep it simple. The only pieces that are not bagged are the sway bar links themselves.

3. This is a side shot of the sway bar and the sway bar link. I currently have a removable TeraFlex disconnect.

4. This is a front shot of the same system.

5. If you have an aftermarket disconnect or your stock sway bar link. You would use a socket and or wrench to loosen the lower sway bar link.

6. Now with your stock sway bar or after market loose.

7. Now use a wrench or socket and remove the top nut. If you have a stock sway bar you would now take the pickle fork and slide it in between the sway bar and link and strike it with a hammer.

8. As you can tell above the TeraFlex sway bar link uses a rather large rubber bushing, that requires greasing often.

9. This red block of aluminum is used to connect the top sway bar link to the sway bar. I've preassembled it with two washers, bolt and a nylock nut.

10. Notice how the block is oddly shaped. It is shaped like this on purpose to fit the stock sway bar.

11. The block is placed underneath the sway bar with the hole facing away from the Jeep. Using a 17mm socket along with a 16mm socket tighten down until snug.

12. From the side this is how the red block looks.

13. This is what the block looks like from underneath the sway bar link. The only way to get this view is to swing the sway bar completely down to see below.

14. Take the lower bolt and connection point with a lock washer and regular washer and place a generous amount of thread lock on the threads. Notice how the threads point into/under the Jeep.

15. Thread on the lower connection point.

16. Using the 19mm socket tighten the lower sway bar link connection point. I found using a small, but disposable screw driver inserted into the clevis pin hole to steady the shaft and keep it from turning.

17. Take the Heim joint end. Slide on the supplied spacers and apply thread lock onto the threaded hex bit bolt.

18. Insert the treaded hex bolt into the already installed red upper mounting block connected to the stock sway bar. Remember the hole should be on the outside pointing away from the Jeep.

19. Use a hex bit to tighten.

20. I leveled out my sway bar and connected the passenger and driver side sway bar links to make sure they where exactly the same length.

21. Now using two 19mm wrenches or a 3/4 wrench along with a 19mm wrench. Tighten the jacking nut towards the Heim joint. With the nut tightened the length is fixed until you decide to disconnect and twist the shaft.

22. This is the lower section connected. I personally didn't like the gap in between the provided pin and the outer edge of the sway bar link bushing. I inserted a thin washer to take up the gap and insure a more snug fit.

23. This is a close up of the upper connection point. Did I mention I really like the Heim Joint?

24. The sway bar disconnects rather simply and moves towards the Jeep really easily.

25. The disconnected sway bar link moves away from the Jeep just as easily.

26. Looking from underneath the Jeep towards the Drivers side.

27. Looking directly at the completed sway bar link system.

28. Looking from the outside towards the sway bar link system.

Final Thoughts

Overall the installation went smoothly, and I love how much easier the new disconnects are to use.

Our Thank You's!

MoabJeeper Magazine would like to thank Kizer, of Links4Jeeps.com, for this article submission.

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